Economic Crisis Shrinks Global Apparel market says new report

The apparel industry is very fast-paced, one which feeds and lives on change - continuously.  According to a recent report from  just-style, the global apparel market has shrunk around 1.8% as a result of the financial crisis.
The study, "Tomorrow’s apparel industry: products, markets, and processes – forecasts to 2016," calculates the total market value at retail prices has fallen to US$755bn this year, from $769bn in 2007.
North America comprises around 21% of the current value, with Western Europe 24%, according to the research.
However, both market shares were diminished by 2008's banking crisis and the resultant downturn.
The report also found that women’s outerwear was the category with highest global market value, followed by men's wear, women’s underwear, children's wear and sportswear respectively.
The 'Tomorrow’s apparel industry' report also includes information on future merchandise trends; market and distribution evolution; the supply chain; future sourcing and production; political and government influences; ethics, Fairtrade and CSR, and technology and systems.
According to just-style, this report is a think piece about the future of the apparel industry. It is intended to encourage apparel industry executives to consider what is going to shape future products, markets and processes in the apparel industry.


MEANWHILE, experts at Verdict Retail Research has announced that the global department store market shrank by 4% in 2009 (to $343.0bn), pulled down by falls of over 6% in two of the three core regions – North America and Europe. However, department stores in China, India, Indonesia and Vietnam remain in a strong position.  In its latest report on Global Department Store Retailing, Verdict reported that while consumers in North America and Europe are reducing non-essential expenditure, they are switching to more value-orientated retailers in reaction to the rising tide of unemployment, smaller bonus payments and falling asset prices.  North America's global turnover has slipped from 40.8 per cent to 35.9 per cent as stores have lost ground to superstores, secialist retailers and online only players.

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Texprint 2010 Prize Presentation to take place in Paris on Sept. 15th

Texprint Colour prize winner Andrew Boyd (right) with designer Wakako Kishimoto

It is wonderful to see young designers get the recognition they deserve.  Further to my report on 19th July on winners of  Texprint 2010, announced at the First View event held at The Triangle Building at Chelsea College of Art, here are a couple more pictures to share.   Photos are by James McCauley.
Among this year's six prizes, the Colour prize has been won by Andrew Boyd (pictured above) of Cleveland College of Art & Design, sponsored by Pantone Europe. Judging the competition, designer Wakako Kishimoto said: “Andrew’s work shows he has an eye for something new and he knows the value of something alien.”




Designs by Interior Fashion prize winner Andrew Stevenson

Meanwhile the Interior Fashion prize has been won by Andrew Stevenson, a graduate of the Royal College of Art. The prize, given by the Sanderson Art in Industry Trust, was chosen by the textile designer Donna Wilson on behalf of prestige home interior design store Heal’s.
Through a rigorous selection process, each year Texprint mentors 24 of the most gifted textile designers to graduate from UK art and design schools, bringing them together to network and present their work to some of the most important names in the industry. This year's 24 finalist-designers will next present their work at the Indigo fair (as part of prestigious Première Vision Pluriel group of trade events in Paris) in September 14-16, 2010 and the prize presentation ceremony will take place on September 15 at 3.30pm. This participation is valuable for the young designers as Premiere Vision Pluriel is an important trade event for all sectors of the apparel, fabric, accessories and interior textile industries.  It will be the ideal showcase for them to appeal to potential clients and future employers.  This September Paris event will also mark the official handover from Texprint’s chairman Julius Schofield to Barbara Kennington.
For the full list of this year's winners and to view the winning designs, click here to go to the Texprint website. 

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Trousers - the new must-haves for 2011!

Fashion directors and store buyers take note.
Square-block tailored trousers will be one of the key trouser shapes for Spring/Summer 2011, according to trend forecast house WGSN.  The picture above shows the trousers are stripped back to create a straight-up-and-down block basic silhouette.



Another key look is the loose-fitting cigarette shape in a relaxed and slim fitting line.
Important in sheer fabrics as a legging update.

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Beauty before Beasts!

Last Saturday was Ladies Day at Newbury Racecourse in Berkshire, but the changeable weather didn't stop some 30,000 racegoers from crowding onto the 105 year old racecourse.  Not all eyes were on the race tracks though.  Celebrity make-up artist Jemma Kidd (pictured above in blue in the centre) got much of the attention as she is the face of a new campaign launched by Newbury Racecourse as part of a major new initiative to try and attract a new generation of racegoers along to the races.

The four-strong Irish boyband Westlife entertained the crowd and took to the stage for the first time at Newbury Racecourse as the finale of a trilogy of ‘Party in the Paddock’ events, an initiative aimed at appealing to a new generation of racegoers by fusing popular music with racing. Night Owls then gathered for some apres-racing as Newbury Racecourse became a Hawaiian hotspot at the Hula Bar.
The new initiative launched recently by Newbury Racecource is called the Inside Track that is designed to enable racing newcomers to get a flavour of the joys and thrills of a day at the races. Through a number of expert masterclasses from learning how to place a bet to how to spot a winner, as well as a series of behind the scenes tours, racegoers were shown how to walk the walk and talk the talk in the racing world.
Jemma Kidd said, “I love going to the races as it’s always such a fun day out to spend with friends and family.” Stephen Higgins, Managing Director of Newbury Racecourse said “Ladies Day is one of our largest racedays and with visitor numbers exceeding last year’s this is the perfect platform on which to launch this novice racegoer campaign.”
The Newbury Inside Track campaign includes:
· A Racegoers Guide to Newbury with useful jargon, details on the runners and riders and an insiders knowledge to some of the best places to visit around the course
· On course Masterclasses and Behind the Scenes tours to get to the heart of the racing action.
· Advice from the experts on how to spot a winner
· Tips on what to do if you fancy a flutter but don’t know your pony from your monkey

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The Belstaff Millford Coat as seen in the new Sherlock Holmes BBC

“Sherlock chic” has become the latest must have for every man’s wardrobe, following the success of the BBC’s new Sherlock Holmes series.   Punters have been attracted to its fast-pace, thrilling story line and witty scripts of the TV progoramme and also the unique style sported by the main character. 

Although Holmes is better known for his precise turn of phrase and uncanny powers of deduction, the fictional detective is now a fashion icon, with many male fans wanting to copy his iconic style.

Clothing company Belstaff, who made the coat featured in the three part series, have won fashion plaudits after bringing Arthur Conan Doyle’s character into the 21st century.  Belstaff has now launched the Milford Coat (shown above), worn by TV’s Sherlock Holmes, and it is available from all Belstaff stores nationwide, including the Conduit Street store in London.

The stylish jacket is made of genuine pure wool Irish tweed bonded with a sophisticated, ultra-light microporous film, to make it waterproof without altering the natural qualities of comfort and breathability.


Fans can purchase the Millford Coat and pick up their own bit of “Sherlock chic” for £1,350.00.


The BBC's recent showing of a modern update of Sherlock Holmes starring Benedict Cumberbatch as Holmes (pictured right) and Martin Freeman as Watson, has been a ratings hit. Now that the first series of 3 episodes have finished, the producers promise that it will return.
"There will be more," producer Sue Vertue told the BBC's Breakfast programme. "We're having a meeting to talk about how many and when."

Based on stories by Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, the 90-minute specials were written by Mark Gatiss, Stephen Thompson and Steven Moffat (lead writer and executive producer on another iconic programme - Doctor Who).
More than seven million people tuned in to see the dramatic cliffhanger in the last three Sundays.

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The Belstaff Millford Coat as seen in the new Sherlock Holmes BBC

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How many mannequins does it take to change a window?

This sounds like a tricky question, but in today’s challenging retail market, shop owners have to look at every penny they spend on their shop windows that need to do the job of "drawing" in customers.





Seen recently at a  shop window in London of retail chain Whistles, window merchandisers were on hand to draw in the crowd by "drawing"  the backdrop designs free-hand.
Impressive work indeed.  The “act” was itself entertaining for passers-by and the original “art” created was part of a current movement in which doodling and line-drawing play a crucial role in design.
Launched recently was an on-line site called window-kit which provides window display kits in the form of vinyl stickers that can be pasted onto the glass of shop windows.
 


The designs come in various themes and you can browse through an on-line catalogue to make your order. There are over 200 designs to choose from, so shop owners who do not have the budget of big chain retailers, can order these sticker kits to apply and update as often as desired.

Meanwhile, as had been promoted in various trade fairs, was UK company Mannakin that specialises in mannequin hire, sales, care and recycling for a variety of creative productions.



So to answer the question in the headline above, that depends on how big is your window and your budget.  Mannakin allows you to buy or sign up a long term rental service so you can change your mannequins in your shop or store windows as often as you wished.

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Betty Jackson launches new label at discounted price!

British designer Betty Jackson has launched her new BETTY JACKSON TWO collection for spring/summer 2011 with a 5% discount on all orders placed as a way to provide incentive to customers in the current economic climate.  Wholesale prices range from £17 to £114 for a range of effortless style combining design with functionality, using contemporary fabrics in a soft palette of blush pinks, pebble greys and nautical blues.  The 50-piece collection includes washed silk jackets, delicate summer tweed and pretty breezy dresses.  The cascading silhouette so popular this year will be one of the featured designs in the new collection, as the picture here shows.  The new range was unveiled at last week's PURE LONDON trade fair. 
The next PURE event will take place Feb. 11-13 2011 at Kensington Olympia in London, with the launch of a new show dedicated to the needs of retailers and brands from the young fashion industry. The show, to be called Pure Spirit, will sit alongside and run simultaneously to Pure London.


Samantha Bleasby, Event Director commented "August 2010 saw Pure London deliver the most ever visitors taking the event to another level. With international visitors up 27% the exciting expansion of Pure London and the launch of Pure Spirit will continue this momentum, and grow overseas visitors even further. "

Pure Spirit will take place in Earls Court One 13th – 15th February 2011, to coincide with Pure London which covers contemporary and premium womenswear, footwear and accessories at Kensington Olympia.

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Concerns for price inflation for Independent clothing & footwear retailers

Four out of five independent retailers are concerned about price inflation for Spring/Summer 11 according to a poll carried out recently by Pure London trade fair organisers, especially for those in clothing and footwear.
Independent retailers should expect prices to rise for spring/summer 11 due to an increase in cotton prices and manufacturing costs. With the weak dollar also continuing to put pressure on margins, many brands can no longer afford to absorb the increases and will be forced to pass some of the costs to retailers and consumers.

"Price inflation is always a worry for independents, the summer season is so short if customers are seeing goods up by say 10% on previous seasons it's just another negative to address before a sale can be made," said Gary Bates, buying director for Hobson Shoes, adding that any increase in prices would pile the pressure on indies at a time when consumers spending is still suffering from the aftermath of the recession.
Figures from the Office of National Statistics show that the rate of consumer price inflation (CPI) rose to 3.7% in April this year, up from 3.4% in March. Clothing and footwear was the key driver behind the surge in CPI, with prices in the sector rising by 2.2% between March and April, compared to a 0.2 % rise in the same period last year. The largest upward effect came from clothing, particularly womenswear.
The latest CBI Quarterly Distributive Sales Survey also revealed that price increases are a concern for retailers with over half (54%) saying that average selling prices rose in May. The volume of sales on the high street was also lower than a year ago, surprising many retailers, according to the CBI.
Although 30% of retailers said that the volume of sales rose during the first two weeks in May, 48% said they fell, giving a balance of -18%. This was a much weaker result than expected by respondents, and was the lowest balance since March 2009 (-44%).  Clothing sales were down after three months of consecutive growth, while other sectors which saw a fall in year-on-year sales were chemists, durable household goods and hardware, china and DIY. Orders placed by retailers with suppliers also fell, as did employment.
Ian McCafferty, CBI Chief Economic Adviser, said, "Retail conditions look to remain fragile. It appears that shoppers are feeling the pinch again and are being cautious with their purchases, given the squeeze to real incomes from higher prices and only a modest rise in average pay."

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Moda at the NEC Birmingham 8 - 10 August

The buying calendar for fashion shop owners and boutique buyers continues this month with the next edition of Moda, which takes place on 8-10 August 2010 at Birmingham, U.K.- at the NEC Exhibition Centre - halls 17,18,19 & 20.
The daily catwalk shows will bring together the key trends of the season. Alongside  there will also be dedicated scenes from glamorous eveningwear brand Anoushka G, French brand Pause Café, young, sexy party label Unique Woman, and British designer brand James Lakeland (who was also at Pure London these past three days). Make sure you get at least one in your diary now! Sunday 10am, 3pm and 6pm, Monday 10am, 1pm and 4pm, Tuesday 10am and 12.30pm.


For menswear buyers, you can check out some key summer styles that will be available to see at August’s Moda Menswear.
Meanwhile, there will also be dedicated Lingerie catwalks to be held throughout the three days, and feature the new looks of the new season from the key lingerie, swimwear, loungewear and nightwear names at 11am, 1pm and 4pm on Sunday, 11am, 2pm and 5pm on Monday, and 11am and 2pm on Tuesday.
Calvin Klein is showcasing the summer’s hottest ad campaigns on two plazas at this season’s show. Grab a drink and check out Calvin Klein Underwear’s new campaign featuring Avatar actress Zoe Saldana in the lingerie hall, and its X Campaign that stars Twilight’s Kellan Lutz and tennis star Fernando Verdasco is showcased on the menswear plaza


Of course, Moda’s not just about the product. There will also be free seminars to attend.
Each seminar lasts roughly 30 minutes, and will be held at the catwalk theatre. Here's the Moda Seminar Programme:-
Sunday 12pm - Using Social Media Tools and Networks to Get More Business
Chris Middleton, managing director of Eskimosoup

Sunday 2pm - Making Your Store Work For You
Helen Goodwin, founder, Made You Look, Made You Stare

Monday 12pm - Banishing Business Excuses
Thierry Bayle, Management One

Monday 3pm - Driving Performance Through Effective Leadership
Dennis Reid, chairman of Retail Performance Specialists

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Boutique by Jaeger Pop-Up Shop opens on 7th August

Jaeger, the heritage British fashion brand, is to open its Boutique by Jaeger pop-up shop in London, on 7th August 2010.
The Boutique by Jaeger pop-up shop is located off the iconic Carnaby Street, at 10 Foubert's Place, in London's West End. The shop will feature a bespoke shop fit, the first of its kind developed by Jaeger, and will showcase the complete Boutique by Jaeger Autumn/Winter 2010 collection.
The Boutique by Jaeger pop-up shop will carry the complete Boutique by Jaeger collection as well as offering a unique selection of highly covetable accessories and gifts from other hot brands such as: Origami pendants, Les Nereides chains & charms, Stenoflex pinhole cameras, hot shades of the season from Essi, fashion books from Assouline and a range of quirky stationery. A listening post from Rough Trade, the  independent record shop, features a hand-picked collection of classics albums and compilations through to hip new releases – try before you buy.  There will also be vintage brooches and pins sitting alongside the Boutique accessory collection.  Highlights from the Jaeger London collection, including accessories, can additionally be found on the shop’s lower ground floor.
According to Belinda Earl, Jaeger’s Group Chief Executive, Boutique by Jaeger captures the liberated spirit of the 60s and marries it with a contemporary rock 'n' roll vibe. Coquettish minis, punkish zipped coats, witty knits, micro tuxes, zippered silk dresses and leather rolled up shorts all give a look brimming with attitude.
Boutique by Jaeger will also be available in selected Jaeger stores from 7th August and online at www.boutiquebyjaeger.co.uk from 5th August 2010.

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Chelsea Clinton wears Vera Wang on her wedding day!

Chelsea Clinton's wedding dress is by Vera Wang and her new hubby Marc Mezvinsky wears Burberry.  Read about the wedding on WWD link here.  And don't forget to click on the slide show.
Congratulations to the happy couple!

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Chelsea Clinton wears Vera Wang on her wedding day!

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