While women have the habit of collecting possessions, men tend to hunt down what suits them and often stick with it no matter where the trends lead. That is, men often don't just shop around for what tickle their fancy, but when they've found something they like, they'll go back for the same time and again. Here in London,
Savile Row is where men go to hunt for dependable British tailoring, especially those with deep pockets. As they say, once you have tried bespoke and custom-made suits, that's what you'll always go for.
British brand
Gieves & Hawkes, housed on the corner of the Row , also boost an extensive ready-to-wear collection in addition to its bespoke sector. At their recent press preview , Frederik Willems, Head of Design, said inspiration for their Autumn/winter 2010 collection was found in Gilbert and George’s art, which reflects the mood of that particular era through strong visuals, rich colours and bold statements. Turning to the tradition of sartorial dressing, Gieves & Hawkes have emphasised the importance of the silhouette. The ambiance of the collection is reflected in the dark colour palette, and rich, textured fabrics which makes the collection ‘radically’ sophisticated.
Gieves & Hawkes' new Autumn Winter 2010 city wear has been reinvented to present a modern city look. Double breasted suits and coats are presented with modern four button, low rise, unlined jackets in exclusively developed cloths from Yorkshire. City pinstripes have been reversed to create a more subtle, tonal palette, teaming blues and greys in simple stripes and checks. Emphasis is made on the internal garment structure to ensure the perfect fit, and the fabric compositions ensuring the traditional tailoring feels more urban and luxurious. The focus is also on the quality of the fabrics used across the collection and they have experimented with new and exciting textures in both tailoring and outerwear. “The silhouette of the jackets and suits has a strong shoulder, balanced by an elegant waist line and a slightly longer body length to reflect the mood of the early Eighties; Britain’s golden age for the creation of new music, fresh art…and new traditionalism,” according to Frederik Willems.
Savile Row is also enjoying favour in the film world as stars of the silver screen often make their way to the Row to hunt down the special style that suit their new status. Tailors at the Row report that a new generation of stars are wearing Savile Row, both as a personal choice and in film costumes. But when stars are not be able to make it to the Row, they would turn to their other favourite, the Italian design supremo
Giorgio Armani. Recently on the first anniversary of the opening of Armani / Fifth Avenue, Giorgio Armani celebrated the New York premiere of Martin Scorsese’s new film, Shutter Island and also his close friendships with Scorsese and leading actor Leonardo DiCaprio. I am not related to DiCaprio of course, although on a number of occasions when I present my name card to a new acquaintance, I'm often asked if I'm related to the star (my maiden name is Carpio, you see). To confuse them, I tell them my dad's name is Leonardo. And that is the truth.
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